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The ferry trip across the Firth of Clyde is a fine introduction to the Cowal Peninsula. TO the north the mountains surrounding the sealochs of long and Goil provide a stunning backdrop as the ferry arrives at the busy town of Dunoon. temporarily interrupting those fishing for mackerel off the pier. Dunoon, Cowal's principle community, grew in the late 1800s to cater for the visitor. Today it boasts a range of hotels, shops and eating places, with something for every taste and every pocket. Built around two sheltered bays, Dunoon is the home of the world's premier highland games, the Cowal Gathering and offers a range of sporting activities including golf, fishing, mountain-biking and, of course, sailing and other water-based sports. The town's ancient castle, previously an important defensive structure dominating the coastline, has been reclaimed by the grass and shrubbery of the Castle Gardens, creating an attractive environment to sit and watch life passing by. A visit to the Castle House Museum will entertain with superb exhibits exploring everything from ancient history to the hey day of the Clyde steamers. Nearby the statue of Highland Mary, the love of Robert Burns, stands gazing longingly across the water to the Ayrshire home of the great bard. The coast road south of Dunoon leads through the sleepy hamlets of Innellan and Toward as it rounds the southerly tip. Above the ruins of the 15th Century Toward Castle, scene of the massacre of 200 Lamont clansmen by the Campbells in 1646, rise forested hillsides and pastureland, whilst the island views south to Bute and the Cumbraes are punctuated by splashes of colour as yachts pass with their spinnakers billowing. The road then narrows as it follows the shoreline by Loch Striven. Magnificent Loch Eck scythes through the centre of the Cowal Peninsula, surrounded by high, forested hills. The loch epitomises Cowal - rugged and spectacular but at the same time peaceful, where you can while away the hours fishing, walking or just taking in the scenery. To the north of Dunoon lies the fascinating Cowal Bird Garden, with its colourful collection of rare birds. This theme of natural colour continues with the celebrated Younger Botanic Gardens at Benmore, at the head of the Holy loch, where an afternoon can be lost in thought wandering through the floral specimens and rare exotic shrubs. To the east lie the quaint lochside villages of Kilmun (with its famous arboretum), Strone, Blairmore and Ardentinny, from where a signposted footpath through the sprawling Argyll Forest Park will take you to Carrick Castle on the shores of Loch Goil. The 54,000 acres of the Forest Park offer many superb walking, cycling and organised horse riding routes. Further north is Lochgoilhead, with its extensive leisure facilities including swimming and golfing. The Arrochar Alps, gloriously rugged peaks for the more serious hill walker, rise above the head of Loch Long, dominating the steep road to the 'Rest and be Thankful', a fine viewpoint where cattle drovers enjoyed a well-deserved break after a tough climb.
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